2017 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD First Test

When you follow the NHL as closely as I do, you often hear talk about a player’s “intangibles.” Take New York Rangers forward Tanner Glass, for instance. At face value, he could be seen as a waste of salary space; he costs the Rangers $1 million per year and only scored one goal in the 11 regular season games he dressed for. Yet Glass brings a level of grit to the ice and comradery to the locker room. His value isn’t added by the number of goals he produces but by the intangibles he brings to the team.

The 2017 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD can be looked at similarly. Mazda redesigned its worldwide best-seller for the 2017 model year, and if you look at it by the numbers, it’s both heavier and smaller than the model it replaces—yet it’s by far a much better family crossover than ever before. It’s the intangibles that the Mazda CX-5 excels at.

Before we delve too deep into what exactly makes the new CX-5 better than the old, let’s take a quick look at the changes made. Signaling Mazda’s shift upmarket, the exterior gets sharp new sheetmetal while the automaker ups its game inside with high-quality materials (especially on top-trim CX-5 Grand Touring models like our tester), more sound deadening, and a clean new Audi-esque design. The 2017 CX-5’s wheelbase has shrunk ever so slightly, from 106.3 inches to 106.2 inches, but overall length and width have grown 0.4 and 0.1 inch, respectively, to help boost headroom and legroom inside. Under the skin, the CX-5’s sublimely sporty chassis carries over with some extensive revisions, and the previously optional Skyactiv 2.5-liter I-4 becomes the new base engine. Power is upped from 184 hp to 187 hp, but torque is unchanged at 185 lb-ft. A six-speed automatic is the sole available transmission, and our CX-5 tester was equipped with optional all-wheel drive. A Skyactiv-D turbodiesel I-4 will be joining the CX-5 lineup this fall.

Most new models follow the “bigger and faster is better” mantra, but not the Mazda CX-5. We tested an identically equipped 2016 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring AWD about a year ago, so we can directly compare the performance of the newcomer to its predecessor. Despite the 2017 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD’s 3-horsepower advantage, its extra 141 pounds of curb weight work against it. The 0–60-mph acceleration run takes the new CX-5 8.4 seconds to complete compared to the old CX-5’s 7.8-second run. The same story continues at the dragstrip. The 2017 CX-5 needs 16.4 seconds to run through the quarter mile, hitting 83.8 mph; its slightly older brother needs 16.0 seconds and blows through the gates at 85.0 mph.

The same trend continues through the rest of our instrumented tests. In 60–0 braking the 2017 CX-5 needed 126 feet to come to a complete stop, 10 feet longer than its predecessor. Although the new CX-5 matched the old in skidpad performance (0.81 g average), it weirdly trailed far behind in the figure eight—28.5 seconds at 0.58 g average compared to the 2016 CX-5’s 28.0 second at 0.59 g performance. The culprit is the 2017 CX-5’s nondefeatable electronic stability control system. “Although there’s absolutely some dynamic goodness in this SUV, it’s really hampered by its stability control system,” noted road test editor Chris Walton. “The steering is crisp and clear, the nose tucks in nicely, the midcorner balance is remarkably good, but the entire skidpad portion of the figure eight is an exercise in frustration because of the stability control.” According to a Mazda rep, stability control is an integral part of the automaker’s i-Activ predictive all-wheel-drive system and thus can’t be disabled. Traction control can be disabled, though.

It might be easy to damn the new CX-5 for being less of a performer at the track than its predecessor, but the 2017 model is actually much more enjoyable to drive on the street than the previous-generation model.

Around town, the 2017 CX-5 feels zippy and quick. The naturally aspirated I-4 revs quickly and makes a decent chunk of power right off the line, so the driver is never left wanting more power. Stay buried in the throttle, and the CX-5’s engine will sweetly sing all the way to its redline, before the six-speed transmission rattles off a quick shift. With many of its competitors moving to CVTs, Mazda deserves particular praise for how well tuned the CX-5’s automatic is; it’s near impossible to trip up. “The transmission is super quick and smooth when changing gears, and it doesn’t hunt much,” noted associate editor Scott Evans. “It’ll even drop a cog or two immediately when you want even just a little more power—it’s clearly tuned for performance.”

That performance tuning rears its head in our fuel economy tests. Although the EPA rates the 2017 CX-5 all-wheel drive at 23/29/26 mpg city/highway/combined, our Real MPG testing saw the new CX-5 Grand Touring AWD achieving just 18.4/29.9/22.3 Real MPG. For comparison, the 2016 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD was EPA-rated at 24/30/26 mpg and achieved 23.4/27.7/25.1 on the Real MPG cycle.

Fuel economy might not be its thing, but at least the CX-5 shines on a good back road. You can tell that a car enthusiast tuned the CX-5’s chassis, suspension, and steering. From behind the wheel, there’s a ton of on-center feel, with the wheel loading up quickly like a sports car as you corner flatly through turns. The steering wheel is always talking to the driver—always feeding the fingers information on what the front wheels are doing. “This car is so sharp it’s almost nervous,” Evans said. “It wants to turn so badly and reacts so quickly that the CX-5 can feel darty if you don’t consciously slow your hands down; it wants a smooth, slow touch.”

The previous-generation CX-5 was great on a back road, too, but it was one of the loudest crossovers in the class on the freeway. The extra sound deadening Mazda worked into the 2017 CX-5 really pays off. At freeway speeds the cabin is quiet and serene. The sport-tuned suspension that works so well at keeping the CX-5 cornering flat in the canyons is equally well suited to cruising highways. Good suspension damping filters out road imperfections and takes care of big bumps with ease.

Another area where the new CX-5 Grand Touring drastically improves on the old is in the cabin. The old CX-5 Grand Touring was nice, sure, but the new model is damn near luxurious. The materials (with the exception of the cheapo “wood” trim), fit, and finish are all phenomenal. The leather front seats are comfortable, if a bit flat, and the back seats offer up an executive-like center armrest with two USBs and heated rear seat controls. The rear seats are roomier and more comfortable on the 2017 model than they were before, but any adult around 6 feet tall or taller is going to wish for more legroom and kneeroom. At least they’ll be cool, though, because Mazda has finally added rear HVAC vents to the CX-5. Taking a page from the rival Honda CR-V, the CX-5’s rear seats now fold completely flat in a 40/20/40 split via three single-pull levers located in the spacious trunk.

Despite being a more luxurious ride, pricing doesn’t change much on the new CX-5. Our loaded 2017 CX-5 Grand Touring AWD starts at $31,635 and stickered for $34,380—a mere $195 more than an equivalent 2016 model.

A lot like the Mazda Miata, the 2017 Mazda CX-5 isn’t a numbers car. It’s not the quickest or most efficient on paper, but its unique selling proposition versus its segment rivals isn’t in the numbers it produces—it’s in the intangibles it brings to the table. It’s in the way the CX-5 makes you smile when you turn a corner, it’s in the way the engine revs when you put your foot into the throttle after dropping the kids off safely at school, and it’s in the way the CX-5 coddles those in the cabin. It’s the intangibles where the new 2017 CX-5 excels. As for how it stacks up in a head-to-head battle with its chief rival—well, you’re going to have to stay tuned for that.

2017 Mazda CX-5 Grand Touring
BASE PRICE $31,635
PRICE AS TESTED $34,380
VEHICLE LAYOUT Front-engine, AWD, 5-pass, 4-door SUV
ENGINE 2.5L/187-hp/185-lb-ft DOHC 16-valve I-4
TRANSMISSION 6-speed automatic
CURB WEIGHT (F/R DIST) 3,667 lb (57/43%)
WHEELBASE 106.2 in
LENGTH x WIDTH x HEIGHT 179.1 x 72.5 x 65.3 in
0-60 MPH 8.4 sec
QUARTER MILE 16.4 sec @ 83.8 mph
BRAKING, 60-0 MPH 126 ft
LATERAL ACCELERATION 0.81 g (avg)
MT FIGURE EIGHT 28.5 sec @ 0.58 g (avg)
REAL MPG, CITY/HWY/COMB 18.4/29.9/22.3 mpg
EPA CITY/HWY/COMB FUEL ECON 23/29/26 mpg
ENERGY CONS, CITY/HWY 147/116 kW-hrs/100 miles
CO2 EMISSIONS, COMB 0.76 lb/mile

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Car Salesman Confidential: The Three Best Ways to Buy a Car

A few weeks ago, I wrote about the dangers of negative equity—or owing more for your car than it’s worth—and how most people end up being “buried” in their automobile because they put very little or no money down and finance for the longest term possible when they buy it. So how can we avoid this awful fate?

There are four ways. The first is to buy a car that actually goes up in value. In other words, a classic car. So, just go out and find yourself a nice, low mileage, numbers matching 1970 Plymouth Barracuda with a 426 Hemi. I guarantee you, you won’t be upside down when you decide to trade it in.

OK, we all know that’s not practical or advisable. You’d ruin a car like that driving it on a daily basis. That leaves only three ways to minimize the effect of negative equity. The first is simply to pay cash. If you don’t owe anything on it, you don’t have to worry as much about what you’ll get for it when you trade it in. Of course, you’ll never get back what you paid for it, so there’s still a loss of equity, but at least you won’t have to deal with three or four grand left on your loan on top of that.

However, the average cost of a new car these days is $33,560. Who has that kind of plata sitting in the bank? Not me! That means we’re down to two ways to avoid negative equity unless you want to buy new. In that case, there’s only one.

Leasing.

Yup, there it is. I used the “L” word. Normally, when you’re talking to a customer and you mention the word “leasing” that’s the end of the entire conversation. It goes something like this:

SALESPERSON: “Well, have you ever considered lease—”

CUSTOMER: “Nope, no, no, not gonna do it! I’m not interested in leasing.”

They won’t even let you get the word out of your mouth before they tell you no! That’s how strong the resistance to leasing is. And the main reason people have such resistance is, first, they’ve heard a bunch of horror stories about leasing, most of them based on practices that were common 20 years ago but aren’t allowed today such as massive “balloon payments” at the end of a lease.

Second, people simply don’t understand it. And people fear what they don’t understand. You might say leasing is the “James Dean of Automobile Financing.” It’s totally misunderstood by the general public, mainly because of unfamiliar terminology such as “residual,” “capitalized cost reduction,” and so on. I’m going to try to explain leasing in a way that minimizes the confusing terminology because once you get past that you’ll realize that leasing really is the best way to buy a new car.

How does leasing work? In order to understand that, first let me explain how conventional financing works. In conventional financing, you take the entire price of the car, add taxes and fees, subtract any down payment, and then plug in a term or how long you want to finance the vehicle. These days, more and more people are opting for six years, or 72 months, just to get their payments to a level they can tolerate. Your monthly payment is the total cost of the car, divided by the number of the months in the term, multiplied by an interest rate.

Leasing is a little bit different. When you lease, you don’t pay for the whole car. You only pay for the portion you use. To determine that, the first thing the manufacturer does is take the price of the car and, using historical data and a mathematical formula, comes up with a figure that represents what they think the car will be worth after three years of depreciation. That’s called the residual value. You don’t pay for that part. You only pay for the price of the car minus the residual, minus any down payment, plus taxes and fees.

Let’s say you’re looking at a $30,000 vehicle. (I’m going to use round numbers here to make it easier.) After three years, depreciation usually takes away anywhere from 45 percent to 60 percent of the value of a new car (ouch!). To make it simple, let’s just say you lose approximately half the value of the car in three years. That means the amount you’ll lease the car for is $30,000 divided by two, or around $15,000. To get your monthly payment, you take $15,000, divide it by the number of months in three years—36—and multiply that by a tiny amount of interest, called the money factor. That gives you your base monthly payment—the one they advertise in all the “lease specials.”

At the current time, a good money factor is something like .00015. To convert a money factor into an interest rate, multiply it by 2,400. In this example, .00015 X 2,400 = .36% Not as good as 0%, but less than 1% and far lower than you typically get in conventional car loans.

There are a few small fees to be considered when leasing, such as an “acquisition fee” and a “disposition fee,” but these are usually only a few hundred dollars each. Of course, you still have to pay taxes when you lease, but the taxes aren’t paid up front, they’re included in the monthly amount. So on a $30,000 car with an advertised lease of $269 per month, expect your payment to be around $300 a month once all is said and done (taxes are never included in national ads because taxes vary depending on where you live). And that’s it. That’s all you’re paying for the pleasure of driving a new car for the next three years.

Best of all, you’ll never have to deal with negative equity again

At the end of a lease you have three options. If you really like the car, you can buy it. And you’ll know what you can buy it for at the start of the lease because it’s written into the contract. Second, you can trade the car in, just like you would any car. Third, you can hand the dealer the keys and walk away. So, in case you haven’t figured it out, leasing is more like renting an apartment than buying a home. The reason this makes perfect sense is, apartments and cars depreciate in value rather quickly, while homes typically appreciate in value over time. And almost every financial expert you talk to will tell you never to finance a depreciating asset because you’ll never see a return on your original investment.

Now, the first objection most people make when they hear all this is “Hold on, Mark, I don’t want to rent a new car. I want to own one.” I understand. Ownership is a very powerful motivator for a lot of people. But think about it. If you’re financing a car for six years, do you really own it? If you want to see who owns your vehicle, skip a few payments. When it disappears from your driveway, you’ll find out who the real owner is. It’s the bank. No one owns a car until it’s completely paid off. But how many people keep their car six, seven, eight or more years? There are some, but not many. Most people get tired of their ride and trade it in after four or five years. So the truth is, most people never actually own their cars. They’re already renting, they just don’t see it that way. They’re also paying more interest than they need to, and if they decide to trade before they’ve paid it off they usually have a huge pile of debt left over, which gets tacked onto the price of their next vehicle. Does that make any sense?

With leasing you get the freedom of a brand new car every two to three years (which is always under warranty), you can drive a car with a lot more features for far less money, you pay practically zero interest, and every lease comes with GAP insurance, or Guaranteed Asset Protection, included. So if someone T-bones you at the intersection and your car gets totaled you don’t have to worry about paying it off. The manufacturer does it for you. Best of all, you’ll never have to deal with negative equity again.

Is there a down side to leasing? Only a few, to my mind, and one isn’t a downside if you’re fully aware of it at the start. First, there are mileage restrictions with a lease. Usually, you’re limited to 10,000 or 12,000 miles per year. And if you go over that you pay a few cents per mile at the end of the lease. However, if you know you’re going to be driving more you can tailor a lease to accommodate your driving habits—up to 100,000 miles a year with some manufacturers—and pay no penalty at all. Next, you need good credit to lease (a score of over 700). Finally, you won’t be able to keep that baby until the wheels fall off. And you can’t customize it. Drat.

Here’s something else to consider: almost everyone who works in the car business leases their cars. Very seldom will you run into a person in sales who finances a vehicle the traditional way. That’s because they’ve seen what negative equity can do, and they understand that at the end of the day, after the shine wears off and the new car smells goes away, new cars are really only big chunks of depreciating metal. So why invest all that money when you’ll never get it back?

There’s one last way to avoid negative equity—and it might be the best way of all. Buy used. Preferably Certified Used. We’ll talk more about that in the future. Thanks for reading!

MORE CAR SALESMAN CONFIDENTIAL HERE:

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Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 Off-Road Tire Review

Trucks and SUVs are back! Sales of trucks and SUVs are going up and so is the production of specialty off-road models such as the Ford F-150 Raptor, Chevrolet Colorado ZR2, and the Ram 2500 Power Wagon. Yokohama took note and is betting big on these off-roaders with the all-new Geolandar M/T G003 mud terrain tire for light trucks. Although mud terrain tires are extreme, Yokohama claims demand for this type of tire has increased and should continue to increase.

To prove how capable their new tire is, Yokohama invited us to beautiful and breathtaking Gateway, Colorado to tackle a series of off-road trails in Jeep Wranglers and drive rear-engine, race-prepared Baja trucks around a dirt road course full of jumps and ruts. All vehicles were equipped with the new Geolandar mud terrains.

The Tire

Yokohama focused much the tire’s development on tread life, claiming this is the consumer’s biggest concern, and introduced a new high-density rubber compound utilizing a new triple-polymer blend designed to increase tread life. Additionally, the engineers designed the tire to have a wider and flatter contact patch, also improving tread life. The tire manufacturer claims an 8 percent increase in tread life versus leading competitors. The new high-density compound also provides good off-road grip and improved stopping distances on wet roads due to the increased amount of silica in the compound. Yokohama claims a shorter stopping distance of 51 feet on wet roads versus a leading competitor.

Keeping the tire strong is the tire maker’s Geo-Shield construction that incorporates three polyester body plies, two steel belts, a full nylon cap, a rim protector, and a hexagonal bead. The tire’s sidewall armor improves durability and almost looks like a continuation of the tread onto the sidewall, providing grip for those instances when the tire gets lodged in a rut or crevasse. The sidewall armor also adds to the already aggressive look of the tire, thanks to the tread’s large and angular blocks and wide gaps.

Engineers at Yokohama didn’t want their mud-terrain to be an earful on the asphalt and took noise generation into consideration when designing the G003. The tire’s tread uses a new block pattern and pitch variation that creates improved harmonics for quieter highway performance. The company claims this creates a tire that is 2.3 decibels quieter than the leading competitor.

The Test

Hitting off-road trails in a caravan of lightly modified Jeep Wrangler Unlimiteds, Yokohama wanted to us to experience the tire on different surfaces (except for mud, ironically) with pressure set to the vehicle’s manufacturer-recommended level. Climbing up and down rugged canyon trails we trucked through hard and soft dirt, sand, grassy fields, loose rocks, deep ruts, and large rock slopes. Passing some enchanting overlooks and old uranium mines, the Wrangler never struggled on the Yokohamas, giving this city-dwelling journalist all the confidence needed to tackle any obstacle on the trail. We were not able to compare the tire against a competitor, but the tire never seemed to struggle. It always provided excellent traction. On our short highway drive, the mud terrains were surprisingly quiet, but of course still noisier than a traditional road tire.

Then it was time for the Baja trucks that were provided by Vegas Off-Road Experience (VORE). These aren’t highly modified production trucks, but instead, all-out race trucks with rear mounted engines, full roll cages, five-point safety harnesses, and suspension almost the length of me. After some instructions we were strapped in tightly, a fresh air breathing tube and microphone were connected to my helmet, and the fun began. Please keep in mind, it’s very difficult to critique a tire when driving an insane machine as fast as you can for the first time while making sure you don’t embarrassingly roll the thing over. This was definitely more of a fun activity than a true test, especially because, once again, we were not able to compare the tire against a competitor. Either way, it was very thrilling experience because the Geolandar M/Ts provided great grip on various off-road surfaces and at varying speeds throughout the off-road course.

The Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003 comes in 37 sizes, ranging from 15- to 20-inch rim diameters and goes on sale in July. The tire comes with Yokohama’s 30-day money-back trial guarantee. BFGoodrich, Goodyear, and many other name-brand tire makers supply similar tires, but after trekking through some rough terrain, the new Geolandar M/T should fare well against the competition.

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